Fort Nieuw Victoria — Ambon

With a few days to spare before the departure of the Spice Islands Sailing Adventure 2013, I had time to explore Ambon and Fort Nieuw Victoria. A fort on this location was built by the Portuguese in the 1500’s and then captured by the first war fleet commissioned by the Dutch East India Company in 1605 and commanded by Steven van de Hagen. The fort was the first permanent settlement of the VOC in the East Indies and the first three Governor’s-General of the VOC were based here, prior to the establishment of Batavia in 1619.
The first Governor-General was Frederick de Houtman from 1605-1611, who happened to speak fluent Malay as a result of his eighteen month imprisonment by the Sultan of Aceh. A painting of Ambon and a greatly exaggerated Fort Victoria hangs in the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam with an adjacent cartouche showing an image of Frederick de Houtman.

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The cartouche that is painted out is where Frederick de Houtman apparently claimed credit for the capture of the fort, credit which belonged to Steven van de Hagen.
The fort was severely damaged by an earthquake in 1754 and rebuilt as Fort Nieuw Victoria. Ambon and its surrounding islands became more important to the VOC as it was here that they concentrated their clove plantations so as to control and monopolize the production of cloves from the Moluccas.
Fort Nieuw Victoria is still a military base so there is no public access and even photography of the outside of the fort is forbidden. When I visited I was able to see a very impressive changing of the guard ceremony (no photographs allowed) and tried to convince the guard on duty if I could take a photograph of the historic entrance, no success until one of the commanding officers came along and said “ok, let that crazy foreigner take his photo, but remember only the gate”.

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There are memorial plaques inside the gate and perhaps someone can help translate them for me.

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I explored as much of the outer walls where I could get access, many are cracked and collapsing, as a result of earthquakes and old age.

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Each of the bastions is named and on exploring the outer walls I found Groeningen and Hollandia but could not get access to the others.

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I also found a plaque with the name of Adriana Johanna, does anyone know who this is?

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Spice Islands Sailing Adventure — 2013

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This year we had a multinational group of 5 Canadians, 6 Australians, 3 English, 2 Dutch and 2 Germans making up our passenger list, we were ably led by our guides Jennifer and Arif, and the whole crew of the Ombak Putih. We also added some new islands to our itinerary – Run, Lei-Lei and Machian.

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The Ombak Putih sailed overnight from Ambon on October 24 and the next day arrived at the island of Run. For those who know the history of the Banda Islands, the English famously swapped Run in 1667 for the Dutch island of Manhattan, in what was the real estate deal of the millennium. Who knew that Manhattan would become the ‘world’s capital’ and that the valuable nutmeg bearing island of Run would sink into obscurity?

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Run village was delightful, the people friendly, the houses freshly painted and tidy. We even found the Manhattan Guest House for those who are interested in staying there overnight. Modern technology has also come to the village as we saw a recently installed set of solar panels and storage batteries to supply electric power to the village. We then explored the nutmeg plantations on the upper part of the island and remembered the islands colorful history in the struggle between the Dutch and the English East India Companies for a share of the nutmeg trade. Watch out for a separate blogpost on the history of Run and the adjacent island of Ai

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Banda was as delightful as ever and we enjoyed our two days exploring the old colonial buildings that were built by the Dutch East India Company (VOC) and the perkeniers they installed on the island. Perhaps the highlight of our visit was the rhythmic ‘nutmeg dance’ performed for us on the bastion of Fort Belgica by a dance group of twelve accomplished Bandanese girls.

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The following day we had a spirited departure from Banda with chants and drumming from two kora-kora racing either side of the Ombak Putih, as they accompanied us through the ‘Sonnengat’.

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Again, some of the best snorkeling was off the white sandy beach of the island of Molana near Saparua. The small dive resort here must do some business in other times of the year but was deserted when we arrived, so we had the whole island to ourselves.

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Thanks to the generosity of the ‘friends of the Ombak Putih’ we were able to deliver boxes of medical and school supplies to the villages on the more remote islands of Manipa, Obliatu and Daworolama. The crew of the Ombak Putih especially enjoyed handing out the school supplies to the enthusiastic school children in these villages.

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A new dive spot was in the Guarici archipelago, just north of Bacan. Here, money has been invested in constructing a road of paving around the island of Lei Lei, and building some very nice wooden villas and a dive center to accommodate the tourists who are expected to come to here from Ternate.

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It would be a great experience to fly to Ternate, then voyage down the Patinti Strait with its line of volcanoes arising directly out of the sea, and spending a few days diving off your own tropical island. Certainly no sign of the tourists this year but the facilities were still being completed and hopefully we will see some activity next year. After our walk around the island the villagers organized an impromptu traditional dance for us, very similar to an English ‘barn dance’, and probably based on a Portuguese folk dance introduced to the islands some 500 years ago.

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This year we were able to go ashore on the island of Machian which is about in the middle of the line of volcanic islands that form the Patinti Strait. Machian has the reputation of being the most prolific of the clove bearing islands and sailors have written how the aroma of the cloves could be smelt far out to sea. We landed in one village and then did a ‘jungle walk’ through the clove, nutmeg, and coconut trees to the next village, for me one of the highlights was some native orchids we found growing in the jungle.

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Captain Ibrahim managed to time our arrival at the island of Tidore in the late afternoon and the sunset behind the islands had all the cameras clicking.

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We then spent a morning exploring Tidore and an afternoon exploring Ternate before our final shipboard party and fond farewells the following day.

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A date has been set for next year’s Spice Islands Sailing Adventure, it will be from October 8 -19, 2014. More details at http://www.seatrekbali.com   

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Across the Spice Islands

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IAN BURNET, IAN HEMPHILL with moderator DAVID SLY

Two men who have dedicated their lives to spices: Ian Hemphill – a modern-day spice merchant & Ian Burnet – authority on Indonesia’s spice islands & trade. Join them in an exotic journey from India to Indonesia along the legendary spice route, discussing the romance of spices & their impact on the modern world.

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The full audio of the session can be heard by following the link to:
http://www.ubudwritersfestival.com/category/audio/page/5/

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Malacca — Where it all started!

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For centuries Malacca was the fulcrum of East – West trade and was best described by its early Portuguese resident Tome Pires in 1514:

“Men cannot estimate the worth of Malacca, on account of its greatness and profit. Malacca is a city that was made for merchandise, fitter than than any other in the world; the end of monsoons and the beginnings of others. Malacca is surrounded and lies in the middle, and the trade and commerce between different nations for a thousand leagues on every hand must come to Malacca”.

It was my pleasure to recently give an ‘East Indies’ book talk in Malacca sponsored by the Malaysian Heritage Society and the Malacca History Club, at the Riverine Restaurant. Please follow the link to see the talk:

 

http://www.ianburnetbooks.com

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Ubud Writers and Readers Festival 2013

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The Ubud Writers and Readers Festival is not just about writers, readers and books but is now a multi-cultural extravaganza that includes music, dance, poetry, performance, film, food and cooking. From when it was created by Janet de Neefe ten years ago to breathe new life into Bali after the 2002 bombings it has grown into an event that is uniquely Bali and is probably unrivalled anywhere else in the world. It has been a wonderful week, truly memorable for the writers and readers we have met from across the Indonesian archipelago and around the World —- how could anyone who loves books not be interesting! P1010914

I was fortunate to participate in three events which are listed below. My challenge now is to be back for another UWRF with another book to talk about.

The Kitchen
For a taste of Indonesia, visit the Festival kitchen & try legendary dishes from Sumatra to Bali, prepared by some of Indonesia’s most creative chefs.
Take a voyage on the high seas to Indonesia’s fabled Spice Islands with Ian Burnet. Served with Balinese afternoon tea.

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Across the Spice Islands
Two men who have dedicated their lives to spices: Ian Hemphill – a modern-day spice merchant & Ian Burnet – authority on Indonesia’s spice islands & trade. Join them in an exotic journey from India to Indonesia along the legendary spice route, discussing the romance of spices & their impact on the modern world.

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The Romance of Rice
Join our esteemed guests for a glorious Indonesian feast of food & mind, celebrating the most important ingredient in Indonesian cooking – rice. Anthropologist J. Stephen Lansing will discuss his lifelong passion for Bali’s majestic paddy fields & his part in creating the UNESCO world-heritage site of Jati Luwih. Ian Burnet will spice it up with swashbuckling stories of the ancient spice trade of the East Indies, while Ketut Yuliarsa will wax lyrical about his home. Janet DeNeefe will share tales from Fragrant Rice & celebrity chef Farah Quinn will add glamour with anecdotes about her favourite rice-based dishes. William Wongso – acclaimed authority on Indonesian food – will prepare traditional culinary dishes from Sumatra to Bali in a taste sensation you’ll never forget.

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‘East Indies’ Book Launch September 21, 2013

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SydneyBookLaunch2Adrian Vickers (Professor of South East Asian Studies at Sydney University) kindly launched the book ‘East Indies’ in front of an audience of 60 attendees at Gleebooks in Sydney. Here is the link to the video showing the last few minutes of Adrian’s introduction and the response.

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Ian Burnet: The Spice Trades’ untold stories —— from Tempo Magazine, September 8 2013

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Very early on in his life, Ian Burnet knew he was destined for a life of adventure. Growing up in a small isolated country town in his native Australia instilled in him an obsessive ambition to get out of town a fast as possible. After graduating with a Bachelor of Science degree in Geology and Geophysics from the University of Melbourne in 1966, he resolved to see the rest of the world, starting work as a geologist on some of the first off shore oil field explorations in Indonesia.
Along the way, the young man became intrigued with the fascinating history of this maddeningly complex country. In 2011, Ian published Spice Islands, a history of the archipelago’s spice trade. Following up on his successful first book,he wrote East Indies, which will be published in September 2013. Ian presently organizes sailing voyages to Maluku, the original spice islands of Dutch colonial history. He shared his story with Tempo contributor, Bill Dalton.

When was your first visit to Indonesia?
In 1968, just after the events described in the book The Year of Living Dangerously took place. The first off shore oil exploration contracts had just been awarded to foreign companies, and as a young 24-year-old geologist, I came here to work for an American seismic exploration company. I spent more than 12 years living in Indonesia and another 10 years travelling back and forth during my career as a geologist. I now spend about 3-4 months a year here, researching and writing. As long as the stories keep coming, I will continue writing about this incredible and mystifying country.

When did you start writing?
Not until 2006, when I first started work on the manuscript for Spice Islands. Most of the first draft was written when my wife and I were living in Bali. Spice Islands was also the first piece of writing I ever published. Although the book has been well received, it was a labor of love and I don’t make my living from it. Fortunately, I have a retirement income. Otherwise I would be a ‘starving artist’.

What is your book Spice Islands all about?
The book tells of the disproportionate effect that the tiny and largely forgotten islands of Ternate and Tidore in northern Moluccas have had on world history. These islands were the only place on the planet in the 16th and 17th centuries where cloves grew, and where the global spice trade began. On reaching Europe, these simple flower buds were literally worth their weight in gold. It was the Portuguese and Spanish who competed to reach the Spice Islands that drove what is known as ‘The Age of Discovery’ and the first circumnavigation of our planet. We all know about the great explorers Christopher Columbus,Vasco da Gama and Magellan, but we don’t know how they are linked together in their quest to reach the Spice Islands, and profit from the fabulous riches of the spice trade.

How did you get the idea of writing a book on the subject?
Kids going to school in Australia in the 1950s learnt nothing about Asian history. When I knew I was coming to work in Indonesia, I read all that I could find on Indonesian history and the ruthless Dutch East Indies Company. But it was a real surprise when I arrived here to learn that the Portuguese and the Spanish had been in Indonesia for 100 years before the Dutch! More than 30 years later, I realised that no one had written a complete history of the spice trade from an Indonesian perspective. This was an ‘untold story’ that had to be told.

Where did you do the historical research?
Fortunately, the inspiration for the book came in 2001 when I was living and working in London, so I had access to all the excellent research materials in the British Library. Subsequently, I spent a lot of time in the National Libraries of Indonesia, Singapore and Australia.

Where did you find the wonderful historic maps in your books?
They say that a picture is worth 1,000 words, but a historic map is worth 10,000 words. I took great pleasure in collecting all the images that go with both books, in particular the historic maps and paintings. The most memorable book talk I have given was at the State Library of NSW when, in conjunction with the presentation, my hosts had on display original copies of three of the historic maps in the book, plus an original copy of Linschotens’ magnificent Itinerario.

During your field research was there any time that you were in danger?
The mass killings occurred in Ambon, Halmahera, Tidore and Ternate in 1999, 2000 and 2001 respectively. I realized that I could not complete the book without travelling to the Spice Islands, and was planning a trip in 2005. I asked the Indonesian travel agent if he had heard of any unrest,he said no and that it had all been quiet for a couple of years. The next day we read of a bomb exploding in a market in Ambon. So my trip was delayed until 2006. As it turned out, there were no problems.

What was your vivid recollection of that trip?
Visiting the Sultan’s Palace in Ternate and meeting the sultan’s sister, Ibu Rini. A marvelous woman! She showed me around the museum in the palace, pointing out the most arresting Indonesian, Portuguese and Dutch historical artifacts. When the Japanese invaded Indonesia, the Dutch evacuated the sultan and his family to Australia. As a young child she went to school in Brisbane. Ibu Rini showed me a photograph of the family standing outside their house in Brisbane. So there’s a real Australian connection there.

Any advice to a beginning writer?
I am inspired to write stories that I would be interested in reading myself. I think that if you were not self-motivated, it would be very difficult to actually finish a book that contains so much research. My advice would be to first find an ‘untold story’ that you are really excited about. Secondly, it is really all about doing a lot of deep research to dig out unknown facts. Thirdly, although I am writing about factual history, I am trying to tell an adventure story, which will hopefully motivate the reader to turn the next page.

Tell us about the sailing voyages you organize to the Spice Islands?
With the publication of the book, there was great interest in the Spice Islands, but most foreigners were unsure how to travel there. Together with a company called SeaTrekBali, our voyages allow guests toexplore the islands from Ambon to Banda to Ternate for 12 days on a traditional Indonesian built Bugis pinisi boat.We filled the vessel in 2012, and we expect to do the same again this October.

What is your next book about?
East Indies follows the old trade routes and the historic port cities across the East Indies and the Orient. Beginning in Malacca, which was one of the world’s largest trading ports in the 16th century, it tells the story of the 200-year struggle between the Portuguese Crown, the Dutch East Indies Company and the English East India Company for trade supremacy in the Eastern Seas. The story takes us to the ports of Banten, Ternate, Banda, Ambon, Solor, Johor, Tanjung Pinang, Penang, Macassar and Bencoolen (Bengkulu—Ed). The book documents the founding of the historic port city of Batavia and concludes with the founding of the modern port cities of Singapore and Hong Kong.

Just out of curiosity, do you personally like spices in your food?
Yes! My favorite Indonesian food has always been fiery nasi padang. I cook what my wife calls ‘survival food’ without many spices, but I have recently become an expert at making a really delicious Indonesian nutmeg cake! ●

See more details about these books on the author website http://www.ianburnetbooks.com

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Spice Islands Sailing Adventure

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It is time to stop procrastinating (The act of postponing, delaying or putting off)
The Ombak Putih departs October 24 for its voyage around the Spice Islands
Only 3 cabins left, the voyage of a lifetime awaits.

Follow the link for details http://www.seatrekbali.com/departures-1/2013

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‘East Indies’ —- Spices, Gunpowder and Opium

44_Painting of Malacca after its capture by the Dutch - Copy Copies of ‘East Indies’ have arrived and there is nothing more exciting than holding the final result of five years work in your hands. The books should be going out to the bookshops in the next few weeks and there are number of events lined up from mid-September for those who are in Sydney.

Sydney MSA, 280 Pitt Street, Ian Burnet: East Indies

Tuesday, 17 September, 6:00pm – 7:00pm

Ian Burnet reveals the 200 year struggle between the Portuguese Crown, the Dutch East India Company and the English East India Company for supremacy in the Eastern Seas.
In 1497 Vasco da Gama’s fleet rounded the Cape of Good Hope, and became the first Europeans to sail the Eastern Seas. Over the next 100 years the Portuguese spread their trading network in search of spices, sandalwood, silks, gold, silver, porcelains and other oriental goods from Goa in India as far east as the Moluccas and Timor in Indonesia, and as far north as China and Japan.
In 1595 and 1601 respectively, the first Dutch and English trading expeditions rounded the Cape of Good Hope and challenging the Portuguese the trading monopoly. The stakes were high.
For the next 200 years the struggle for trade supremacy between the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the English ranged across the Eastern Seas and in the settlements of Goa, Malacca, Ambon, Macao, Canton, Nagasaki, Batavia, Macassar, Johor and Singapore.
For the winners, the pay off was huge. By the end of the 19th century the Portuguese had almost vanished from the Eastern Seas, and the Dutch and the English East Indies Companies had been transformed from trading companies into colonial powers, ruling vast territories in Indonesia, India and Malaya.
FREE & OPEN TO THE PUBLIC

The State Library of New South Wales —— Ian Burnet on ‘East Indies’
Thursday 19 September Time: 12.30 pm to 1.30 pm
Metcalfe Auditorium, ground floor, Macquarie Wing Cost: Free, bookings essential

Author Ian Burnet talks about his latest book, East Indies. This book follows the trade winds and begins in the port city of Malacca, telling the story of the 200-year struggle between the Portuguese Crown, the Dutch East India Company and the English East India Company for trade supremacy in the Eastern Seas. It follows the rise of the world’s first joint stock and multinational trading companies and their conversion to huge colonial states ruling over millions of people in Indonesia, India and Malaya.

Gleebooks – East Indies Book Launch

Saturday 21 September Time: 3.30 pm for 4 pm , upstairs at 49 Glebe Point Road

Book Launch by Adrian Vickers, Professor of Southeast Asian Studies at Sydney University
Free, bookings essential

Australian National Maritime Museum
East Indies book launch and talk by Ian Burnet
Sunday 29 September 2 pm — 4 pm

A fascinating talk about the spice trade and its little known associated collateral. It documents the 200 year struggle between the Portuguese Crown, the Dutch East India Company and the English East India Company for trade supremacy in the Eastern Seas. It documents the rise of the world’s first joint stock and multinational trading companies and their conversion to huge colonial states ruling over millions of people in Indonesia, India and Malaya.

Cost: Members $20 Guests $25. A light sandwich lunch and wine will be served after.
Bookings essential: Book online
Enquiries: Phone +61 2 9298 3644

More details and a review of the book are available on the author website listed below.
http://www.ianburnetbooks.com

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Want to get blogging? — The Power of the Internet — Worldwide views of the spiceislandsblog in 6 months

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